Sunday, May 24, 2009

All About Electrical Connections in Your Car



Poor electrical connections are probably the most common dilemmas with cars. Whether it is your engine playing up or it is the radio in your car that is not working, it could be due to bad electrical connections. You don’t have to take your vehicle into a mechanic's store in order to determine the problem if you know what is wrong and can possibly do it yourself, especially if it is nothing but a connection difficulty. Sometimes it is something simple you could have done yourself, but you took it to the mechanic down the road and it cost you a fair amount of money.

Instead of using the term "electricity" when it comes to a vehicle, some words that are better to describe it are resistance, voltage and amperage. With voltage, just think of it as a little shove. Provide an electrical circuit with voltage and all it will do is shove the certain electrons down to the wires. For example, if your car has a battery that consists of 12 volts connecting it to an electrical system, this can be done by turning the key in the ignition. What will happen now is the voltage will stand still, and absolutely nothing further will happen. The more voltage there is, the more push is offered, and if that voltage is enough, like lightning or even spark plugs, it will even be able to jump up into the air.

An easy way to explain resistance is to say that it opposes flow. Just like driving over a pothole or into a ditch would slow down the speed of your car, electrical resistance will slow down the flow of certain amps. There are many areas of a vehicle that need resistance in order to work. The motor from the windscreen wipers need resistance so that the maximum speed at which it wipes is limited. Inside a light bulb in your car there is a high resistance thread that is able to heat up when there are amps flowing straight through it. Some car parts that have resistance in them are relays, bulbs, motors and solenoids. These are good sources of resistance, but you do get bad ones too.

Amperage, or just amps, is nothing but the flow of electrons. It is the amperage that does all of the hard work when it comes to an electrical circuit. With a vehicle, the starter motor can use anything up to 400 amps, and sometimes even more can be used when trying to start a car with a cold engine. Another one of the car parts that uses amperage is the heater fan; it can use approximately 15 amps where the defogger for the rear window will use about 20 amps. The amps will flow with no problem while there is voltage in the circuit, but if you add the resistance in all the wrong places the amperage will no longer flow as it is supposed to and will probably stop flowing all together.

Resistance may be present anywhere in an electrical circuit. It can be with the ground connection, the battery, the switches or even the power wire. In many cases the body of the vehicle as well as its frame offers the path for the correct amount of ground connection. The places in which there are most likely to be connections will be where there is also high resistance.

Ground connections play a big role in electrical connections and it is thanks to them that all electrical aspects in your vehicle can work. Some car parts use electricity while others don’t. It might also depend on your car in order to determine the type of connections that are present. Car accessories also sometimes use electrical connections; it all depends on what accessories you are interested in. Make sure your car will be able to handle these accessories before you go out and buy them. Car accessories are available in many different forms. It is up to you to decide what you like. There is something out there to suit every person and every vehicle.

Your electrical connections determine what will work in your car and what won’t. So make sure you are aware of these specifications before you go and make purchases that you might regret.

Friday, May 15, 2009

An Example of a Driveability Problem




When it comes to driveability problems, know that you have something that needs to be seen to. It can cost you a lot of time as well as money, and the longer you leave the problem the worse it is going to get. It is vital that you see to it as soon as the problem arises. If you go to a mechanic store and ask the technicians what is the most difficult problem to diagnose on a vehicle and if they do not answer with noisy engines and other vibrations, squeaks and rattles, they will tell you it is driveability problems.

Compared to other car parts, driveability problems occur more often. There is a wide range of these problems. They can be anything from difficulty with transmission shifting to something as simple as starting the car. A common problem that occurs with driveability is when your vehicle hesitates when you go up to about eighty kilometers per hour. A problem like this normally seems worse when it is a hot day. Cruising steadily at a speed of approximately 80 or 90 kph will encourage the problem, but as soon as you step on the gas the car should go fine. This is a typical driveability problem.

If this has happened to your car and you take it in to be checked the sparkplugs should have been changed, the timing would have been checked, and every other routine inspection would have taken place. Then you are told that everything in your vehicle is A for away and you can hit the road again, only to be driving on a hot day again and you feel the same stumbling happening in your car. So you decide to take it to a different mechanic instead of the one that “fixed” the so called problem car parts in the first place. You tell them what is going on and also that you have taken your car in and it has recently had a service, so there shouldn’t be any further problems.

Many people think that they need to get rid of their car accessories when they take their vehicle in, but if it is a trusted dealer you are taking the vehicle to that will not be necessary. If you have problems with certain car parts, you can sometimes buy them separately and have them installed without having to go to a mechanic that will cost you extra money. So now that you have found a second mechanic to see to your problem, you take the car to them to see if they can determine the root of the problem because obviously the other mechanic couldn’t. They check everything the previous guys did and then did what they didn’t do. They monitored the car over a few days, taking it for a drive every day until they experienced the stumbling themselves. They discover that the problem stems from when the clutch is engaged in the torque of the transmission converter when you go in the range of 80kph, so the problem apparently lies in the transmission. The problem has now been diagnosed, but not solved. Now to a repair shop.

At least you know what the problem is now. Now you just have to have it repaired. No, apparently not. The mechanic at the repair shop takes the car for a test drive and he reckons that it is not the transmission but rather the engine. Now you are starting to get rather mad. After all this money spent, you still don’t have answers. So where to now? An auto technology repair centre. You get there and tell them the whole story. By now you are fuming, so they agree to sort your car out for real this time.

It is not normally the car parts that need to be seen to when one talks about driveability problems, but rather the fuel pressure. Everything in the car was re-checked for the third time; camshaft lift and timing, vacuum leaks, spark plugs and wires, cylinders, fuel injectors, you name it, everything was checked. After hundreds have been spent on all of these different mechanics, it takes one to tell you that the problem in fact was the distributor. Inside the distributor cap there was a small carbon track that had occurred from the jump of the spark plug. This is why the car would jerk and stumble when not driven fast. Problem solved, finally!

The moral of the story; do not immediately assume that your car parts are acting up and that car accessories play a part in the problem. With driveability problems you have to dig deep into the source of the problem to find where it comes from.

Monday, May 11, 2009

An Example of a Driveability Problem

When it comes to driveability problems, know that you have something that needs to be seen to. It can cost you a lot of time as well as money, and the longer you leave the problem the worse it is going to get. It is vital that you see to it as soon as the problem arises. If you go to a mechanic store and ask the technicians what is the most difficult problem to diagnose on a vehicle and if they do not answer with noisy engines and other vibrations, squeaks and rattles, they will tell you it is driveability problems.

Compared to other car parts, driveability problems occur more often. There is a wide range of these problems. They can be anything from difficulty with transmission shifting to something as simple as starting the car. A common problem that occurs with driveability is when your vehicle hesitates when you go up to about eighty kilometers per hour. A problem like this normally seems worse when it is a hot day. Cruising steadily at a speed of approximately 80 or 90 kph will encourage the problem, but as soon as you step on the gas the car should go fine. This is a typical driveability problem.

If this has happened to your car and you take it in to be checked the sparkplugs should have been changed, the timing would have been checked, and every other routine inspection would have taken place. Then you are told that everything in your vehicle is A for away and you can hit the road again, only to be driving on a hot day again and you feel the same stumbling happening in your car. So you decide to take it to a different mechanic instead of the one that “fixed” the so called problem car parts in the first place. You tell them what is going on and also that you have taken your car in and it has recently had a service, so there shouldn’t be any further problems.

Many people think that they need to get rid of their car accessories when they take their vehicle in, but if it is a trusted dealer you are taking the vehicle to that will not be necessary. If you have problems with certain car parts, you can sometimes buy them separately and have them installed without having to go to a mechanic that will cost you extra money. So now that you have found a second mechanic to see to your problem, you take the car to them to see if they can determine the root of the problem because obviously the other mechanic couldn’t. They check everything the previous guys did and then did what they didn’t do. They monitored the car over a few days, taking it for a drive every day until they experienced the stumbling themselves. They discover that the problem stems from when the clutch is engaged in the torque of the transmission converter when you go in the range of 80kph, so the problem apparently lies in the transmission. The problem has now been diagnosed, but not solved. Now to a repair shop.

At least you know what the problem is now. Now you just have to have it repaired. No, apparently not. The mechanic at the repair shop takes the car for a test drive and he reckons that it is not the transmission but rather the engine. Now you are starting to get rather mad. After all this money spent, you still don’t have answers. So where to now? An auto technology repair centre. You get there and tell them the whole story. By now you are fuming, so they agree to sort your car out for real this time.

It is not normally the car parts that need to be seen to when one talks about driveability problems, but rather the fuel pressure. Everything in the car was re-checked for the third time; camshaft lift and timing, vacuum leaks, spark plugs and wires, cylinders, fuel injectors, you name it, everything was checked. After hundreds have been spent on all of these different mechanics, it takes one to tell you that the problem in fact was the distributor. Inside the distributor cap there was a small carbon track that had occurred from the jump of the spark plug. This is why the car would jerk and stumble when not driven fast. Problem solved, finally!

The moral of the story; do not immediately assume that your car parts are acting up and that car accessories play a part in the problem. With driveability problems you have to dig deep into the source of the problem to find where it comes from.

Friday, May 8, 2009

How To Deal With A Dead Car Battery

Your battery is one of the most important parts of your car. Even if you have a great, efficient vehicle, or one that offers top performance, it's not going anywhere without a working battery. Unfortunately, leaving the lights on, or simply having too many electronic devices hooked up to a car that hasn't moved for a while could result in a dead battery. You may not discover it right away, either. One day, you put the key in the ignition, and all you get is a ticking or dragging noise, or only the lights will come on. You might have a dead battery.

Of course, there are a few other things that could be wrong, too. There are other car parts that could be the trouble. A bad alternator could cause your battery to go dead, but it's not the battery's fault, or the problem might be the starter, and not a dead car battery at all. You'll need to find out before you buy a new battery, because otherwise, it'll be a waste of money and time. If the car has simply been allowed to run down, you may also be able to jump start the vehicle and recharge the battery by running the car. Some newer vehicles, such as hybrids, cannot be jump started, so you should know your car.

In any car, the battery should be checked regularly to make sure it's working well. Cables need to be correctly connected and battery posts should be clean. If you're unable to jump start your car, you'll need to have it towed to a service station, so try everything else first. Don't just assume your battery is dead and you need a new one. There are battery chargers and similar car accessories that plug into an outlet. These can be used to fix your dead battery, or you could try jumper cables. Just make sure you follow a few basic safety precautions before doing anything with the battery.

If you're going to be working under the hood, you'll need to make sure it's secure to prevent it from falling unexpectedly. A falling hood probably won't injure you, but it can hurt! Remember to check your manual to find out the correct way to deal with your battery, especially if you'll be installing a new one. Your car manual can tell you more about what to do with your specific make and model than any general article or piece of advice from a friend. The newer and more advanced your car is, the more likely it is to have some kind of special instructions for dealing with a dead car battery. The price of car parts, such as a new battery, will also depend on the type of car you have. Some batteries are much more expensive than others.

Be extremely careful if you'll be jump starting your car in the cold, since a dead battery can freeze if the temperature is below ten or fifteen degrees. Jumping the car at this temperature could result in an explosion! If you need to jump in this kind of weather, allow the car that's being used to jump yours to run for a few minutes, with cables attached, to warm the battery. If it's very cold, you should stand ten feet or more from the car and wait up to half an hour. Don't be tempted to rush this - if you can, find a warm place to stay while you're waiting for the car to start.

No matter what weather you're jumping in, be sure not to make the final connection on the battery terminal. That's because dead batteries can off gas and sparks may ignite this gas. Make the last connection on a metal surface in the car, instead. Wear safety goggles if you can, and if they're not available, don't look at the battery when you make the connection - if an explosion occurs, this will protect your face. Start both cars at once, and if yours is sluggish, let the other car charge your dead car battery for a few minutes. If your headlights burn brightly, you should be able to start your car.

If you need a new battery, check for a store that sells car parts and car accessories, and be prepared to pay for it. Installation can be done on your own, but remember the basic safety precautions and remember that you'll be responsible for disposal of the dead battery after it's removed. A fresh battery in a car that's in good working condition should last for years. If it doesn't - something else may be wrong, and different car parts may need to be replaced. That's one reason to have a professional check your car if you're having battery problems. He or she can recommend the right car accessories to fix the problem.

Sunday, May 3, 2009

1969 Alpine A-110

In 1961, the Alpine A110 made its introduction, as an improved and updated A108. Most of the Alpines of the time made use of Renault parts that are mass-produced. The A-110's predecessor the A-108 was designed for Dauphine components, while the A-110 was the updated version made to use the R8 parts. The A-110 was first available with "Berlinetta" body works then with Cabriolet.

The A-110's fiberglass body sat on a chassis with a backbone of steel, the Lotus Elan influenced this design. The Alpine designers used Colin Chapman as a primary origin for their inspiration. The A-110 was outfitted with a 1.1 l R8 Major or with R8 Gordini engines, which had 95 hp SAE at 6500 rpm.

The engine is why, early in the 1970s, it achieved the majority of its renown as a winning rally car. This was after the 1960s when the A-110 won a number of French rallies using the iron cast R8 Gordini engines. This car was then outfitted with the Renault 16 TS engine, aluminium block. With two dual-chamber Weber 45 carburetor, this engine was capable of 125 hp DIN at 6000 rpm, which is why it reached 130 mph in speed.

In the course of the 1970 through 1972 racing seasons, the car gained international fame when it attended the new International Championship for Manufacturers and won a number of events throughout Europe. Among the most noteworthy was the car's victory in the 1971 Monte Carlo Rally driven by the Swedish Ove Andersson.

In 1973, Alpine was bought out by Renault and the International Championship, at this time, was replaced with the World Rally Championship. Renault competed with the A-110, the team consisted of Jean-Pierre Nicolas, Bernard Darniche, and Jean-Luc Therier as the permanent drivers. Once in a while, there would be "guest stars" drivers such as Jean-Claude Andruet who had won the 1973 Monte Carlo Rally. This made the Alpine the first of the World Rally champions.

Around the world, there were other manufacturers of the Alpine, using various other names. Like in Brazil, it was Interlagos, which was driven by Emerson Fittipaldi in a few races. In Mexico, from 1965 through 1974, it was the Dinalpin, produced by Diesel Nacional that, by the way, also manufactured the Renault cars. In Bulgaria, from 1967 through 1969, the Alpine A-110 was produced and called the Bulgaralpine. This car was produced through the partnership of ETO Bulet and SPC Metalhim, this partnership also produced the Bulgarrenault.

By 1974, the Alpine A-110 had reached its end of being developed any further. At first A-110 was outfitted with fuel injection but it didn't produce any further performance improvements, then the DOHC 16-valve head was tried but that was unreliable. Next was a chassis modification using an A310 double wishbone rear suspension along with A-110 1600SC but that was no better.

Here is a rundown of the A-110 various engine types though out the years.

A-110 1100 "70" 1000 VA R8 Gordini type, 804 1108cc 95 hp SAE from 1964 to 1969
A-110 1100 "100", 1100 VA R8 Major type, 804 1108cdc 95 hp SAE from 1965 to 1968
A-110 1300 S 1300 VB tuned R8 Gordini type 804 1296 cc 120 hp SAE from 1965 to 1971
A-110 1300 G 1300 VA stock R8 Gordini 1300 type 812 1255 cc 105 hp SAE from 1967 to 1971
A-110 1500 stock Lotus Europa engine: R16 block 1470 cc 82 hp SAE from 1967 to 1968
A-110 1600, 1600 VA stock R16 from 1969 to 1970
A-110 1300 V85 1300 VC R12TS 1289 cc 81 hp SAE (68 hp DIN); from 1969 to 1976
A-110 1600S, 1600 VB tuned R16 TS 1565 cc 138 hp SAE (125 hp DIN); from 1970 to 1973
A-110 1600S, 1600 VC, SC R17 TS 1605 cc 140ch SAE (126ch DIN); from 1973 to 1975
A-110 1600S SI, 1600 VD R17 TS with fuel injection 1605 cc 140ch SAE (127ch DIN); from 1974 to 1975
A-110 1600S SX stock R16 TX from 1976 to 1978 type 843 1647 cc 93 hp DIN

The chassis was a steel backbone
Body panels were fiberglass
Weight was 1367 pounds
Length was 159 inches which 13.5 feet
Width was 59.1 inches, which is 4.925 feet
Wheelbase was 89.4 inches, which is 7.45
Track (front to rear) was 48 inches to 49.2 inches, which is 4 feet to 4.1 feet
The top speed was 139 mph at 6000rpm
Had front and rear brake discs
Has a 5-speed manual transmission

Currently, a fully restored French built Alpine 110 was located in Maryland and it is available at 60 thousand dollars.